Especially designed for urban riders, Giro Reverb features a classic look, light weight and simplicity. The Reverb helmet has 9 vents, an easily removable cap-style visor and comes in a multitude of colors.

The 9 vents on the Giro Reverb helmet, along with the internal channels, are effective enough for short rides (~20 miles / ~30 Km) in very hot weather. In cooler temperatures, Giro Reverb is comfortable over longer distances, and its light weight seems to help in this respect. The Reverb is one of the few urban helmets that feature such large vents.

Giro Reverb is rounded in the back, which is arguably safer than pointed helmets. If you fall on the back of your head, pointed helmets might cause your head to sharply rotate and you might end up with a neck injury. Thankfully, I've never experienced this myself, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

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Giro Reverb Helmet:

• Vents : 9
• Sizes :
  S (20”-21.75” / 51-55 cm)
  M (21.75”-23.25” / 55-59 cm)
  L (23.25”-24.75” / 59-63 cm)
• Certification : CPSC
• MSRP : $40
• In-Mold Polycarbonate Shell with EPS liner
• Auto Loc Fit System
• Removable cap-style visor
• Weight : 270g (for the M size)

If it's hot where you live and really love how this helmet looks, pick one of the lighter colors. It really matters. Also note that three of the Reverb colors, the retro style ones, have the original Giro logo printed on them.

Giro Reverb is available from Amazon or ChainReactionCycles.

Shimano PD-M520 pedals are some of the cheapest SPD pedals you can buy. Costing a little more than $30, their pros far outweigh their cons. And the latter are more inconveniences, really, especially when you consider the price.

Why are the Shimano M520 pedals the perfect choice for those new to clipless pedals? Because they're cheap and reliable. When trying something new, people want a quality product for a minimal price. In the case of the Shimano PD-M520 SPD pedals, that's exactly what you'll get. The only inconvenience I could find is that you need a special tool, the Shimano TL-PD40, if you plan on servicing the pedals yourself.

The difference between the Shimano M520 and the Shimano M540 isn't really obvious, beyond the slight weight difference and the plastic vs metal construction. As you can see in the photo, the M520 pedals weigh 372 grams per pair, only ~25 g more than the M540. Note that the older (2004) version of the PD-M520 pedals weighed more than 400 g.

I suspect that Shimano uses more durable parts in the more expensive pedal. That doesn't keep the M520 from working flawlessly for thousands of miles before it needs servicing. Not bad for the price paid, is it? If you feel there's something wrong with the pedal in the first few rides, the warranty should cover any defects.

There are two 3 mm Allen bolts on each pedal. These are used to adjust the tension. Increase the tension to prevent accidental release; decrease it to make it easier to unclip. You might like the default setting, or experiment until you find the most comfortable setting for you. Remember to adjust the bolts on both sides of each pedal.

There is a slot for a 6mm Allen key on the crank arm end of the Shimano PD-M520, and you can use the Allen key to start the installation. But the pedals should be tightened using a 15 mm pedal wrench, as the 6mm key can't provide the necessary tightening torque (according to Shimano).

The Shimano M520 pedals can and should be serviced (cleaned, greased) either as a preventative measure, or when you feel something is wrong with the pedals (noise, play, etc.). A yearly overhaul should suffice for the majority of cyclists. But you might have to do it more or less often, depending on your riding conditions. You can easily do that yourself with the right tools, or you can have your favorite mechanic do that for you.

To take apart the M520 pedals, a special tool, the Shimano TL-PD40, must be used. If you're going to overhaul the pedals yourself, don't try removing the pedal axle with anything else (any kind of pliers, etc.), as you'll just damage the plastic sleeve of the pedal. Shimano PD-M540 servicing doesn't require you to have this tool, as it's an all-metal construction, although they're more expensive than the M520 pedals.

Servicing the Shimano PD-M520 pedals will require the following:

• A 15 mm spanner to remove the pedals.
• The Shimano TL-PD40 tool.
• A vice to hold the axle while you adjust the bearings. It can be done without it, though it won't be as easy.
• A 10mm and a 7mm wrench to adjust the bearings.
• Grease the bearings (generously) before reassembling
• I suggest you replace the ball bearings when servicing. The size of the balls is 3/32", and you'll need 26 of them for each pedal. I recommend G25 (grade 25) balls. 100 of them should cost around $6.

Get Shimano PD-M520 pedals from Amazon or CRC.

There's a reason Shimano's been selling the PD-M540 since early 2004, without discontinuing it. It's one of the most popular SPD clipless pedals. The M540 pedal is a high quality product, affordable and has more value than more expensive pedals.

With properly installed cleats on the SPD shoes, clipping in and out of the Shimano M540 is smooth and predictable. Those new to clipless pedals can decrease the spring tension until they feel more confident. For more aggressive riding, increase the tension to prevent accidental release, in case your heel inadvertently twists while pedaling. There are 2 adjustment bolts on each pedal. Be sure to adjust the tension on both sides of each pedal. You'll need a 3 mm Allen key for this.

Shimano's PD-M540 are all metal and feel solid. A pair weighs 350 g. To install the pedals, you'll need an 8 mm Allen key, not a 15 mm spanner. This is one of the reasons I like the M540 pedals; I like taking tools with me on my longer rides, and an 8 mm Allen key is more compact than a 15 mm pedal wrench.

If you ride regularly, an annual overhaul of the Shimano M540 is recommended. It's not a difficult job, so you can do it yourself. Or you can pay the mechanic at the LBS to do it for you. If you opt for the DIY route, the pedal servicing requires no special tools. You'll need:

• An 8 mm Allen key to remove the pedals from the cranks.
• A 17 mm wrench to unscrew the axle.
• A vice to hold the axle while you adjust the bearings. You can manage without it, but it's a lot easier with it.
• One 10 mm, and one 7 mm wrench to adjust the bearings.
• Grease the bearings (generously) before reassembling.
• I suggest you replace the ball bearings when servicing. The size of the balls is 3/32", and you'll need 26 of them for each pedal. I recommend G25 (grade 25) balls. 100 of them should cost around $6.

Shimano designed the M540 pedals with mud shedding in mind. So dirt won't be a problem in either on-road or off-road cycling. Also, the bearings are sealed, keeping (salt!) water out.

Get the M540 pedals from Amazon or CRC.

Durable, comfortable and affordable. That's what these gloves from Troy Lee Designs are. With minimal padding, you'll barely feel them on your hands.

Even though they're marketed as XC, they're suitable for DH and other mountain biking. They're also really comfortable for road biking. The padding isn't overdone. Some mtb and road gloves have too much padding. This helps compressing the nerves, which causes finger numbness and tingling.

Troy Lee Designs XC gloves are durable. You'll get many seasons out of them, even with the occasional mild crashes. They also breathe well, so you won't feel as you're wearing latex gloves.

Even though they're full finger gloves, these Troy Lee gloves are fairly cool in the summer. They're the excellent choice for protecting your knuckles and staying cool at the same time. They're also great for autumn and spring riding. Unless you have very mild winters where you live, these gloves don't offer cold protection.

Available in many colours and sizes, you can buy them from ChainReactionCycles and Amazon.

1. Computer: a must have for the majority of cyclists, cycling computers have many functions. Depending on the model, these include:

• Speedometer (current, average and maximum speed)
• Odometer (current trip distance and overall distance)
• Cadence (pedaling frequency, rounds per minute)
• Temperature
• Clock
• GPS
• etc.

If you're on a budget, I recommend the Sigma BC 1609 computer. If you want a high end computer with GPS and maybe a heart rate monitor, take a look at the Garmin Edge computers on Amazon and ChainReactionCycles.

2. Helmet: Protect your head. Need I say more? All helmets are equally safe. More expensive helmets tend to be lighter, better ventilated and have a better fit system.

Budget helmet: Giro Indicator.
High-end road helmet: Giro Aeon.

3. Mirror: There are handlebar mirrors and helmet/sunglasses mounted mirrors. Which kind of mirror is better? Some prefer the former, some like the latter. So it's your choice. If you prefer a helmet mounted mirror, I recommend the Bike Peddler Take A Look mirror, which can also be mounted on your sunglasses.

4. Fenders/mudguards are a must have for touring and commuting. They prevent dirty water (mud, sand, salt, you name it) from being thrown on you and your bike. The front fender also protects the lower part of the headset from dirt that might otherwise destroy it if not serviced regularly. Full length fenders offer better coverage, especially for commuters. Shorter fenders don't protect as well, but are better suited for mountain bikes. Fairly good prices  here and here.

5. A bell is great for warning pedestrians. However, if you want to let motorists know you're there, you'll want an Airzound! That thing is really loud, cheap and refillable with any bike pump.

6. A bike rack is essential for touring. It's also great for commuting, as it allows you to carry a bag with you. If you're like me and can't stand backpacks for prolonged periods of time, a rack + bag are indispensable. I've had the Topeak Super Tourist DX and Topeak MTX TrunkBag DXP for more than a year now, and couldn't be happier.

7. Mini/frame pump. One of the most important bike accessories is a mini pump. A mini pump is just a pump that isn't a floor pump and can be mounted to your bike's frame. I recommend the kind of pumps that have a flexible hose, like Topeak's Road Morph or Turbo Morph. It's a lot easier and faster to pump a tire with a flexible hose pump.

8. Bottle and bottle cage and/or hydration pack. When cycling, you have to stay hydrated. Mounting one or more bottle cages to the frame will allow you to take water bottles with you. Or you can buy a hydration pack like Camelbak, which will allow you to take 1.5, 2 or 3 liters (50, 70 or 100 oz) with you. Hydration packs are more effective at keeping you hydrated, as it's a lot easier to drink from them, even without stopping. Camelbaks are high quality, and really cheap for what they offer.

9. Front lights have two purposes: let you see and be seen. There are powerful lights that do both. You need these if you ride at night with dim or no street lights. Less powerful lights are cheaper but you won't be able to see well in front of you. So they're best suited for city riding, where there's a lot of light. Before you pick a light, think if the drivers, who may be blinded by incoming cars' lights, will be able to see you. It's best to buy 2 front lights with different modes, including a flashing mode (not a strobe mode though, it's nasty and might be illegal!). Have one in constant, and one in flashing mode.

There are countries where it's illegal to use any flashing lights on bicycles. Know the law in your country before you buy your lights.

Rear lights should be powerful enough to be seen hundreds, not tens of meters away. I think it's best to have two rear lights also. One should be blinking, the other one constant. Be aware though, that if these two lights are next to each other, drivers behind you might think you're indicating right or left. So it's best to mount them on top of each other to eliminate any possible confusion. I'm talking from experience! I've heard good things about the Cygolite Hotshot tail light/blinkie.

10. Cycling sunglasses are very useful. They block light and wind. They also stop bugs, sand and other stuff from getting in your eyes. I recommend you get a pair of cycling sunglasses with interchangeable lenses. Usually these come with 3 pairs of lenses in different colors: dark gray for sunny days, orange (or yellow) for overcast conditions, and clear for low light conditions. Tifosi sunglasses have high quality optics and are affordable.

11. Bicycle locks: I usually warn everyone I know not to leave their bikes unattended, even after locking them. A thief with the right tools can force any high quality lock open in minutes. They can do it in seconds if the lock is cheap. Remember, professional thieves have power tools! If you must leave your bike unattended, get two high quality locks: one U-lock, and one cable lock. Thieves use different tools to break different kinds of locks, so it'll be more difficult and will take them longer for them to steal your bike. The cable lock should be long enough to lock the wheels and the frame. Take easy to steal stuff (e.g. computer) with you.

12. You should always take spare tubes, a patch kit and 2 tire levers with you. If you're in a hurry, you can just change the inner tube without patching it. But what if you have a second or even third flat on the same ride? You'll be glad you have that patch kit with you. As for the tire levers, you might be able to take the tire off with your bare hands, but this could be almost impossible sometimes, and it depends on the tire-rim combination you have. So it's better to have the levers just in case. Tire levers are plastic; don't use metal objects to force the tire off the rim, as you might permanently damage the aluminum rim!

13. A tool kit must be available at all times, especially on longer rides. You can buy a multi tool, which is small and light. They are great for emergency repairs. Topeak Alien II is a good quality multi tool, and it has 26 tools in it. Also available at ChainReactionCycles.

14. Gloves might not seem important, but they are for a cyclist! All year round, gloves protect you hands in case you crash, so think about your knuckles! In hot weather, if you have sweaty palms, gloves can prevent your hands slipping on the handlebars. In cold weather, they help you stay warm. In freezing temperatures, fingerless mitts are recommended, or "lobster claw" gloves for better dexterity.

Did I forget anything? Do you have anything to add? I'd love to hear your opinion!

Road bikes have drop bars, which also offer different hand positions. If you have flat handlebars, you might have thought about switching to drop bars. But that would be expensive, because you'll have to buy new road shifters, cables, brakes along with drop bar and a new stem. Road bike components are generally more expensive than their MTB/hybrid counterparts.

Switching from a flat bar to a trekking bar is very easy and cheap. You will only need to buy the following:

1. The trekking bar of your choice.
2. Some bar tape or long foam grips.
3. Depending on your bike's fit, you might need a longer stem when you switch to a trekking bar. If your bike is slightly too large for you now, you might get a good fit with the current stem.

There are different butterfly bar manufacturers. They're all almost the same, though their width slightly varies, usually from 56 to 60 cm. Oh, and they're available in either silver or black.

You can use your current flat bar grips. To be able to take advantage of the trekking bars' different hand positions, you should also order some quality bar tape. With this tape you'll have to wrap (or double wrap) the rest of the bars. Without the grips, just (double-)wrap the entire bars with bar tape. I prefer bar tape, as it's more comfortable than grips. If you can find 400 mm foam grips (US link, UK link), try them.

Try the trekking bars with your current stem first. Depending on your bike's size and the angle of the installed butterfly bars, you might not need a new, shorter stem. The angle of the bars can be changed by rotating the handlebars at the stem. This way you'll be able to customize their height and reach.

Here's some good news for those of you who love gadgets. With butterfly bars, you'll have plenty of room to mount your stuff!

Butterfly/trekking bars are available at a good price on Amazon. Amazon.co.uk also sells them.

Giro Aeon: 9.8 / 10

Advantages:

• Comfortable
• Very light
• Great ventilation
• Good fit system

Disadvantages:

• Expensive

Giro Aeon's light weight, together with the Roc Loc 5 fit system, could very well make it the most comfortable helmet you've ever worn. It also comes in 3 sizes, ranging from 20 to 24.75 inches. That's way better than the universal size, and provides a better fit.

If you want a pro level helmet, then the Aeon is, most likely, the one for you. Get it from Amazon.com or ChainReactionCycles.

Earlier, Giro sold two top of the line helmets, the Ionos and Prolight. The Ionos was considered the best ventilated helmet, and the Prolight - the lightest. Giro Aeon's ventilation is as good as the Ionos, while being a few grams heavier than the Prolight. In other words, Aeon is lighter than the Ionos, and cooler than the Prolight.

The Aeon Helmet comes in several colors, as you can see below:

Click on a thumbnail for a larger view. Press arrow keys or click on the left/right of the picture to see previous/next one.

The Helmet is extremely well ventilated. It has 24 big vents, through which you'll have no problem scratching your head! Giro's Wind Tunnel channeled ventilation helps, so fresh air will keep moving around your head.

Giro Aeon Bike Helmet Specifications:

• Vents : 24
• Sizes :
  S (20”-21.75” / 51-55 cm)
  M (21.75”-23.25” / 55-59 cm)
  L (23.25”-24.75” / 59-63 cm)
• Certification : CPSC
• MSRP : $250
• Thermoformed SL Roll Cage reinforcement
• X-static padding
• Slimline webbing
  
• Channeled Ventilation, Wind Tunnel vents
  
• Roc Loc 5 fit system
• Weight : 7.8oz/222g

As far as safety goes, all certified helmets are equally safe. You could buy a helmet for $30 and feel safe. But buying the Giro Aeon helmet, you'll also feel comfortable, and your head will be cooler than ever. It's also extremely light! It's available at Amazon.com or ChainReactionCycles.

GoPro HD Helmet Hero: 9.0 / 10

(Note: The newer GoPro HD HERO2 Camera is now available.)

I'm not an impulsive buyer, so I decided to buy the Gopro HD Hero after doing a lot of research on the subject. What I wanted is a small video camera that I can take with me on my rides. So I was specifically looking for a cycling oriented helmet cam, which can also be mounted on the bike's frame.

I needed a camera that could do the following:

• High definition video.
• Readable car plates, just in case I need them later for evidence. You definitely need an HD camera for that.
• Wide angle of view.
• 60 fps for smooth slow motion playback.
• Take good quality photos, and has an intervalometer (take photos automatically at set intervals).
• Good battery life.

I found all of that in GoPro's HD Hero, the camera that's included in the GoPro HD Helmet Hero, Motorsports Hero, Surf Hero and HD Hero Naked packages. Yes, they are the same camera, but have different mounts and accessories included.

GoPro HD Helmet Hero Camera Specs:

• Video modes: 1920 x 1080 pixels 30fps (r5), 1280 x 960 pixels 30fps (r4), 1280 x 720 pixels 60 fps (r3), 1280 x 720 pixels 30 fps (r2), 848 x 480 pixels 60fps (r1).
• CMOS sensor
• 170º angle of view in r1, r2, r3 and r4 modes; 127º in r5 (1080p) mode.
• Saves videos as .mp4 files (H.264 compression).
• Photo resolution 5 MP.
• Photo Modes: Single shot; photo every 1,2, 5, 10, 30 or 60 secs.; 3 photo burst; self-timer. Photo every 1 second becomes available once you update the firmware to the latest version.
• One battery included.
• 1 year warranty.

You can see what's included and the full technical specifications on the official web page of the GoPro HD Helmet HERO Camera.

I ordered my HD Helmet Hero directly from the Official GoPro Store. Ordering directly from the manufacturer is usually the best option. In this case, I absolutely recommend it, as it gives you not only a full year warranty from GoPro; these guys have one of the best customer support, so if you have any questions or problems, they'll make sure you're a happy customer. I contacted them twice myself. They replied the same or next business day.

Gopro shipped my HD Helmet Hero the next day after I ordered. I received it several days later. I knew that the unboxing of the GoPro is not an easy task, so I was prepared for it! But I was glad that they package it the way they do, because nasty stuff happens to our precious packages in the hands of delivery companies!

Click on a thumbnail for a larger view. Press arrow keys or click on the left/right of the picture to see previous/next one.

I knew the GoPro camera was small. Still, I was surprised by how small it is when I saw it, even with the housing. I started appreciating that when I got used to taking it everywhere with me, even when I'm not riding my bicycle. If you have kids like I do, you'll be glad you ordered this little camera. I used it to shoot videos of my 5 year old daughter riding her bike, and my 2 year old son doing whatever toddlers do!

GoPro HD Hero's picture quality is fantastic. It requires good lighting to shoot high quality videos. So don't expect miracles from this camera. Daylight is optimal, and overcast weather is never a problem. However, I don't recommend it if you're going to use it primarily to shoot after sunset or indoors with little light. At night the quality is quite poor. You'll have to spend a lot more money and get a bigger camera to shoot HQ videos at night. I shoot indoors quite often, and the quality is acceptable when there's enough light (2 x 20 watts energy saving lamps) .

Here's a video sample I uploaded to Youtube. The original video's quality is better, as Youtube compresses videos. Watch the following in 1080p, full screen:

GoPro HD Helmet Hero's still photos turned out to be better than I expected. The camera shoots in full auto mode. But you can set the metering to Center (default) or Spot. The fish-eye effect is a result of the extreme wide angle of GoPro HD Hero's lens. Some like it, some don't, and it can be corrected using post processing software. The resolution of the pictures is 2592 x 1944 pixels (5 megapixels). Just like in the case of videos, the quality of the photos degrades in low light conditions.

I had a problem with my camera. It would only record less than an hour on a freshly charged battery. I contacted GoPro, and the next day they replied. They asked me to make sure the battery is being fully charged. I replied that it is, so they replied by sending me an RMA# and asked me to send the camera for evaluation. Which I did. 36 hours after they received it, they sent me a brand new, fully tested camera. The new camera has the advertised run time of 2.5 hours. GoPro support also updated to the latest firmware before sending it to me. Thoughtful and thorough, don't you think?

The original camera also had a rattling sound coming from the shutter button. The new replacement camera didn't have that problem. This rattling is easily eliminated with scotch tape over the shutter button. The tape doesn't affect the button's function, though. If you have this problem with your GoPro HD, and don't want scotch tape over the shutter button and your warranty period isn't over, contact GoPro. They'll ask you to send them the camera, and will more than likely send you a new fully tested camera.

I found that the R5 (1080p 30fps) mode was best for my style of riding, which is 90% road cycling. To eliminate motion blur use the R3 mode (720p 60fps). 60 fps also lets you slow down your videos in post processing software and have smooth slow motion. Of course 1080p offers the best picture quality. In that mode you can shoot a little less than 16 GB (~2.5 hours) on a fully charged battery.

Whether you commute by bike to work or you're into extreme sports,  GoPro HD Helmet Hero is a very good choice. An their support is excellent, they won't let you down. Get the GoPro® HD Helmet HERO™ Camera from GoPro.

Now, about the different GoPro HD Hero camera models. GoPro sells several flavors of the HD Hero camera, which are:

• GoPro HD Helmet Hero
• HD Motorsports Hero
• HD Surf Hero
• HD Hero Naked
• HD Hero 960

Just to be clear, all of these, except the HD Hero 960, are the same camera. The difference is in the accessories, mainly mounts, included. Look at the table below for a comparison between the different GoPro HD Hero packages.

Product Name:	GoPro HD Helmet Hero	GoPro HD Motorsports Hero	GoPro HD Surf Hero	GoPro HD Hero Naked	GoPro HD Hero 960
GoPro Camera Included:	HD HERO	HD HERO	HD HERO	HD HERO	HD HERO 960
Mounts:	1 Head Strap (Headlamp-Style) 1 Vented Helmet Strap 2 Curved, 3M™ Adhesive Mounts 2 Flat, 3M Adhesive Mounts 1 Three-Way Pivoting Side Arm Assembly 2 Quick-Release Buckles	3 Flat, 3M™ Adhesive Mounts 2 Curved, 3M™ Adhesive Mounts 2 Quick-Release Buckles 1 Vertical Surface “J-Hook” Buckle 1 Suction Cup Mount 1 Three-Way Pivoting Side Arm Assembly	1 3M™ Adhesive Mounting Base 1 FCS™ Plug-Compatible Mount 1 Quick-Release Buckle 1 Leash	1 Curved, 3M™ Adhesive Mount 1 Quick-Release Buckle	1 Curved, 3M™ Adhesive Mount 1 Flat, 3M™ Adhesive Mount 1 Helmet Front Mount 1 Head Strap (Headlamp-Style) 1 Quick-Release Buckle
Housing:	Shockproof HD Hero Housing. Waterproof to a depth of 180 ft/60 meters. Quick-Release.
Battery:	Rechargeable 1100 mAh Lithium-Ion. Provides up to 2.5 hours of runtime on a full charge.
Cables:	1 USB Cable, 1 Component Video (HDTV) Cable, 1 Composite Video + Audio Out Cable.
Price:	$299.99	$299.99	$269.99	$259.99	$179.99
Order from Official GoPro Store:	GoPro® HD Helmet HERO™ Camera	GoPro® HD Motorsports HERO™ Camera	GoPro® HD Surf HERO™ Camera	GoPro® HD HERO Naked	GoPro® HD HERO™ 960 Camera

HD Hero and HD Hero 960 difference:

GoPro HD HERO 960 can't shoot 720p @ 60 fps and True HD 1080p video. Also, the HERO BUS expansion port is missing from the 960 model. This port is located on the back of the HD Hero models. It's necessary if you want to connect the "Battery Bacpac" or "LCD Bacpac" extensions to the GoPro cam. You don't want to use these extensions, and don't care about the above mentioned video resolutions? Then get GoPro's HD Hero 960 camera. It's 40% cheaper and you still get great quality videos.

* The camera records 60 fps and 30 fps with NTSC (North America). If set to PAL, the camera records 50 fps and 25 fps.
** r1, r2, r3, r4 and r5 are the symbols shown on the GoPro's  LCD screen on the front of the camera.

GoPro HD Hero takes 5 megapixel pictures (2592 x 1944 pixels). Their average size is around 2.5 MB (megabytes). The size varies from 1.5 to 3 MB, and depends on the amount of details in the picture. The camera can be set to automatically take pictures every 1, 2, 5, 10, 30 or 60 seconds. The original firmware doesn't offer the 1 second option, so make sure to update the firmware.

GoPro HD Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Can I shoot videos at night or indoors with my GoPro HD Hero camera?

A: It is possible to shoot videos at night if there's an artificial source of light, but don't expect miracles. It's just not the right tool for low light conditions. GoPro cameras excel in daylight, so this is where they should be mainly used. If you occasionally want to use it indoors or at night, see the low light conditions tip below about which mode to use.

Q: Should I update the firmware?

A: Yes, you should! Updating the firmware not only fixes certain bugs, but also introduces new features, which were not available in the original firmware.

Q: I just bought a new GoPro HD Hero camera. Does it come with the newest firmware?

A: Most likely not. Here's how you can check the firmware version of your GoPro camera. Switch the camera to photo mode, and take a photo. Connect the camera to the computer, or take the memory card out of it and into a card reader, and connect that to your computer. In the file properties of the picture you just took, check the EXIF data. Depending on the operating system you use, under Program Name (Windows 7) or Software (Ubuntu) you should see the firmware version, something like Ver01.01.54. The most recent firmware can be downloaded from GoPro. GoPro's older firmware started with Ver02.xx.xx. The newer firmware now starts with Ver01.xx.xx, so if you have 02 in the beginning, don't think that it's newer than 01. It's weird, I know... I don't know why they named the versions like this.

Q: Does GoPro HD take good photos?

A: The photos' quality is surprisingly good for GoPro's small sensor. It wouldn't be fair to compare them with DSLR photos, of course. I'll upload some photos in various conditions to show you what you should expect. If you already have a GoPro camera, please consider sharing them via the upload section at the end of this page.

Q: What's that rattling sound in my GoPro videos?

A: The rattling sound may come from different places. Let's try to diagnose this problem step by step:

1. Rattling sound caused by a button, especially the GoPro shutter button. Take the camera out of its housing. Turn it on and start shooting a video. While shooting, shake the camera up and down, and side to side. While shaking it, don't let your fingers touch any of the two buttons. Now go watch the video. Is the rattling sound there when you play back the video? If yes, then repeat the above, but this time touch the buttons with your fingers. Go watch the video. If the rattling sound is gone, then now you know that one of the buttons is the problem. The shutter problem in my GoPro caused this. I fixed it by taping over the button with some 3M scotchgard paint protection film leftovers. It's thick, doesn't come off easily and the camera won't be sticky if I decide to remove it. Any tape will do the trick though.
2. First step didn't solve the problem? Then the rattling sound might be caused by some play between the mount and the quick release buckle. Two pieces of electrical tape applied on either side of the raised center part of the mount solves this problem. The orange or white C-shaped rubber piece that comes with the newer GoPros might help, too.
3. Still hearing rattling noise? Maybe the sound is coming from your bike, or maybe even your helmet straps. If you have any more ideas, please let me know.

Q: I have a Micro SD card. Can I use it with an SD adapter in my GoPro Camera?

A: I have a Transcend 8GB Micro SD card myself, and I used it successfully with an adapter. Keep in mind that even if it works, you have to thoroughly test it. Because if the GoPro is used in rough conditions, there's a possibility that the connection will be lost between the Micro SD card and the adapter. Use a little tape to prevent the card from shifting inside the adapter, or even a very small amount of super glue for a more reliable and permanent solution.

GoPro Tips:

In low light conditions, use one of the 30 fps modes instead of 60 fps. This allows for a twice longer exposure time, so the videos turn out brighter. Also, if you set your GoPro camera to PAL instead of NTSC, it will shoot videos @25 and 50 fps instead of 30 and 60 fps. The might help you get brighter videos.

Shooting 720p videos @60 fps (r3 mode) should be used when you're planning on adding some slow motion to your videos, which is done with video editing software. 60 fps means you'll get smooth slow motion. If you slow down the video to 25% (by 4 times), the edited video will have 15 fps. Compare that to shooting @3o fps, when you get 7.5 fps (jerky playback) after slowing down the video to 25%.

You should use 1080p @30fps (r5 mode) when you need maximum detail. It also gives acceptable results if you plan on slowing down the video to 50%, i.e. 15fps. Using this mode will yield the highest quality videos. You must use it if you want to capture cars' license plates as evidence.

GoPro just released the Floaty Backdoor. It consists of a floating device securely attached to a waterproof backdoor. The latter is just like the one that came with your GoPro HD. The floaty backdoor will keep your GoPro from sinking, and its orange color will make it easier for you to spot. If you're into diving, surfing, or any other water activity, this will prevent you from losing your GoPro camera. You can order it now from the Official GoPro Store.

I will update this page regularly, so if you have anything to add, please comment below or contact me. I'll give credit where it's due, of course.

Schwalbe Snow Stud: 8.7 / 10

Advantages:

• Good Grip
• Ride with confidence on ice, even while turning
• Can be used when there's no snow or ice

Disadvantages:

• Weight

Riding in the snow is a challenge. Of course, it's impossible to do it with slicks. That's where knobby tires come to the rescue. But what if there's ice, or little patches of compacted snow on the road every now and then? It's doable with knobbies, but dangerous. The solution: Studded tires. Schwalbe Snow Stud is perfect for road riding in these conditions. The studs are not in the center, unlike the majority of studded tires. The studs are arranged on the side of the tire, to make riding on the road more comfortable, and for less rolling resistance.

Under normal conditions, all you have to do is inflate your Schwalbe Snow Stud to 65-7o psi. When pressure is so high in the tire, the studs don't touch the road, unless you turn aggressively. If there's snow and/or ice on the road, 30-40 psi is optimal. With low pressure, the studs touch the ground and allow for more traction. Ride carefully at first, as your bike will feel different with studded tires.

Click on a thumbnail for a larger view. Press arrow keys or click on the left/right of the picture to see previous/next one.

Schwalbe's Snow Stud weigh a little more than other studded tires with the same stud count. That's 100 studs for the 26" tire (50-559), which weighs 980g. The 28" tire (40-622) has 120 studs, and weighs 915g.

Schwalbe Snow Stud Specifications:

• Sizes : 40-622 (700 x 38C) and 50-559 (26 x 1.90)
• Stud count : 120 studs for the 28", 100 studs for the 26"
  
• MSRP : $76
• Pressure: 30-70 psi (700C); 30-65 psi (26 inch)
• Weight : 915-980 grams

Schwalbe Snow Stud claims to do 2 things at once: Ride in normal conditions, and on snow/ice. As with every such product, it doesn't do both things perfectly. In normal conditions, it doesn't roll on the road as smoothly as slicks or semi-slicks (nor any of the other studded tires) . And it doesn't provide as strong a grip as other studded tires that have studs in the center of the tread. But what it does perfectly is provide us with the best of both worlds. That's why Schwalbe's Snow Stud is perfect for commuters.

The 26" (50-559) and 28" (40-622) sizes are both available at Amazon. Also available at ChainReactionCycles for a slightly lower price.